Leaving Nicaragua

Normally there would not be much to tell about leaving a country and returning home, but I felt that in this particular case, it deserved its own post.

After a couple of days in San Juan del Sur, and another couple of nights in Granada, the three of us, Kenny, Dennis & myself, were all ready to leave Nicaragua and start heading home. Our little town of Playas del Coco was calling our name, offering our own beds, and familiar, safe locales. Before we could enjoy those creature comforts of home though, we needed to spend nearly an entire day stuffed into several overcrowded buses traveling between Nicaragua and Costa Rica.

The night before we left I couldn't sleep a wink. Not because I was excited about going home, but because I had picked up a stomach bug at some point over the previous couple of days. Before we left Costa Rica I had not researched the drinking water in Nicaragua, and as it turns out, it is not safe to drink. I found out the hard way, so considered yourself forewarned.

Back Street Nicos of Granada
Luckily there was a pharmacy attached to San Jorges, our $5 a night hostel. The gentleman behind the counter didn't speak much English, but knew exactly what we were trying to convey. Two pills was all it took to give me, and my travel mates, a safe and comfortable ride home over the next 10 hours.

The bus route home was a grueling trek across 150 miles of stop-and-go country roads. We first needed to find our way to Rivas, then catch a connector to the border town of Frontera, which in Spanish literally means "border". This is the same border crossing we visited on our way into Nicaragua, so we thought we were old pros at this point.

Wow, were we ever wrong. This time we did not have our friends with us to guide us through the mayhem. Left up to our own devices, we headed to the building where we received our entry visas for Nicaragua. It had only been a few days, but things had already been changed around. Rather than sliding our passports through a small opening, we now needed to enter the building to clear customs.

We approached the customs agent together, but he only wanted one at a time. At this point we made our first mistake, and split up into separate lines in an effort to speed the process. I had no idea what the man was saying to me, and in my typical fashion during these types of moments, I just smiled, nodded and said "sí, sí."

Loner on the edge of Lake Nicaragua
I maybe understood a little of what he was saying. He pointed to my papers, and in Spanish said, "where have you been in Nicaragua during your stay?" Well, at least that's what I thought he said. I replied that we had visited San Juan del Sur and Granada, each for a few evenings. He accepted that, stamped my passport, and I was on my way.

Traversing the border on foot between these two countries requires you to show your passport & papers to many different border patrol officers along the way. There were no less than three stations on each side which stopped us to verify everything was in order. We were just about to pass station number three in Nicaragua and officially enter Costa Rica when I was singled out and not allowed to pass.

As it turns out, the customs agent who stamped my passport had given me another entry visa, rather than the exit visa I needed. My friends explained that the agent was asking where I was headed, not where I had been. Just another case of being lost in translation.

The patrol officer turned me around, and sent me back from where I came. My friends were stuck in no-mans-land, men without countries as it were, while I fought my way back into the customs building. If our first encounter was confusing, this round was down right uncomfortable. I had to cut in front of everyone else, without explaining why, and argue with the customs officer until he understood what I was saying, and gave me what I needed. Not fun, but I got it done.

Now onto the Costa Rica side of the border, we again pulled our trick of entering the exit of the customs building, saving ourselves a few hours in the process. However, this time did not go as smoothly. In order to enter Costa Rica, you must have proof that you are leaving the country before your 90 day visa expires. Its called Proof of Onward Travel, and is a total pain.

Little Nica in Nicaragua
Not all customs agents ask for this proof, so we decided to try our luck, which we apparently had very little of. The agent asked, and of the three of us, only Kenny had the required onward travel documentation. Dennis & I were not allowed to enter the country until we sorted this out, and the agent provided absolutely no direction as to what we were supposed to do now.

Just outside the building we started asking around... After all, somebody had to know how to get around this, we just needed to find the right person. It didn't take long, and all we needed was a $20 bus ticket. The ticket is good for one year, and we were told this is sufficient documentation for the customs agent.

To our surprised it worked, and we were finally back in our assumed country of Costa Rica. It felt great, and we found our second wind. We needed the extra energy too, because the mix up with customs had caused us to miss our bus. The next departure for Liberia didn't leaving for another hour and a half, much longer than we were expecting.

Once again we turned to the crowd and just started talking. We found a guy that was dropping off his family at the border, then he was headed back to San Jose by way of Liberia. Perfect! We paid him $10 total, and off we went. This was an incredible deal, since the bus would have cost us $9, and the taxis all wanted $40 to $50 for the trip.

It was an express route, straight through to the bus station in Liberia, then onto our last bus directly into Coco. We made it back into town around 4pm that afternoon, just in time to catch to 4pm monkeys. After a monster burger & a basket of fries at Coconuts, I was ready for a two day nap.

Home, sweet, home...

Granada Videos

Street Market
     I left my camera dangling around my neck, set to record video as I walked through the street market in Granada, Nicaragua. Its a little jumpier than I would have liked, but at least you can see the market's interior shenanigans.

Swinging Baby
     This mother was working with one hand, and swinging her baby with the other. I stopped and motioned for permission to take her picture. She smiled, and I captured this short clip...

Street Performers
     My friends & I were at the Road House Cafe eating dinner, when we heard loud drums playing outside. I ran out with my camera, amazed at what I found. What is this?

Break Dancing
     Hip hoppers break dancing in the street...

Granada

Merry Christmas Eve!!

On November 21st we left San Juan del Sur headed for Granada. Getting around in Nicaragua is fairly easy using their public bus system, if you keep an open mind about your comfort level. We needed to catch a bus from San Juan del Sur back to Rivas, a main hub for the Nica buses. Quick note: locals in Costa Rica are called Tico/Ticas, and local Nicaraguans are called Nico/Nicas...

It seemed as though each transfer station was about an hour apart from one another in any direction. Each time we boarded a bus, we knew we had at least an hour, sometimes a little more, before reaching our destination. I found this comforting, since we would usually know what to expect going into the deal.

We had a short break in Rivas before our next bus departed. I had brought a bag that was already stuffed to its brink, and set out to find a slightly larger backpack for myself. Kenny took off in the other direction in search of a belt, and I'm not sure where Dennis went. Rivas is one of those small towns in the middle of nowhere, but if you know where to look, you can find just about anything. We all agreed to meet back at the bus in 10 minutes.

While we waited patiently for our bus to depart, we were constantly harassed by local vendors selling everything from biscuits, to watches, to sacks full of some type of brown and orange juice. The juice was in a sandwich bag with a twisty-tie and a straw, and was very popular among the nicos. We didn't have any desire to test our stomachs on this particular day, so we passed on the juice bags.

Along the route to Granada we came across a very distinct smell that we all immediately recognized. A sly grin crept across our faces as we looked first at each other, then scanned the interior of the bus. We undoubtedly smelled marijuana, and figured someone had lit up a joint. However, a little further down the road our questions were answered. Villagers were burning huge piles of pot on the roadside, and the smoke was wafting down the highway. They were burning marijuana along with all the other weeds they had pulled from around their homes. Just another day in Nicaragua...

From asking around in Playas del Coco, I got a sense that Granada would resemble an old European city. I was even told that it possessed a quaint, colonial feel circa 1700. I had high hopes for a clean, safe, beautiful town full of culture.

I was shocked when I stepped off the bus. Perhaps the entire town of Coco had conspired against us. Maybe we had all fallen asleep and missed our stop. A thousand scenarios scrambled through my mind as I stared down the long line of dilapidated shacks, haggard umbrellas and piles of rotten food in the street. I knew one thing for sure... I needed to use the bathroom.

Actually, I knew two things. I also knew how to ask "where is a bathroom" in Spanish. For whatever reason, nobody could understand me, and we had to ask several different people. Finally we were pointed to a nondescript door and told to go inside. Knowing nothing about what we might find, we braved ahead.

It turns out that this was a family's home with a basic general store in their living room. Grandma, swaying in her rocking chair, smiled and pointed towards the backyard, knowing exactly what we needed. She charged us five cordobas, which is twenty cents in American money. We walked through their kitchen, tried not to step on any children in the dining room, and couldn't help but silently laugh at this unique experience.

Back on the street and heading into the thick of it, we were quickly spotted by a local hostel owner. He was offering "the deal of the week," as he puts it, which was a room for US$5 a night per person. Tempting as that sounded, we felt obligated to take a look around instead of settling on the first room presented to us. A futile effort apparently, because we ended up back at San Jorges, for five dollars a night. What a country.

We asked around and discovered that the place to see was the town square, which happened to be directly on the other side of the long strip of vendors. This was not a walk we were looking forward to, but for a reason you might not expect. It was not our safety we were overly concerned about, it was the smell. Each vendor would throw their leftovers & scraps of food into the middle of the street where it would sit, rotting, baking in the hot sun.

Plaza de la Independencia
The town square was a pleasant surprise, and was what we had been expecting from Granada. In the middle of the square is a large gazebo, surrounded by lush trees, fountains, statues and lots of park benches to relax while taking in the goings-on. Street performers infrequent the area, but we did manage to find a talented juggler.

Along one of the bordering streets was a long line of horse drawn carriages which added a feeling of old world France to the scene. The facade was complete when coupled with the nearby french-quarter-esque buildings. Just as I was about to take a picture, this horse bowed its head, as if to accept applause for its appearance.

The inscription on this statue reads Devotion to the Mother of All Love. Considering that Granada is the oldest colonial city in Nicaragua, as well as the entire Western hemisphere, this statue is in surprising good condition. There were several other statues around the town square, but this one stood out amongst the rest. Other statues had graffiti on them, or were simply covered in moss.

Also within the square were lots and lots of vendors selling bottles of water, candy, sodas, small snacks and much, much more. They seemed to be fairly popular, and remained in the park until well after dark. We weren't sure about the drinking water in Nicaragua, so it was nice to be able to find a quick bottle of water when we needed it.

  


More to follow... 

Night was a completely different scene in Granada...

San Juan del Sur

We caught a taxi from Sapoa over to the coastal town of San Juan del Sur in Nicaragua, a beach community that was recommended to us by several people in Playas del Coco. This is the go-to fishing spot for many locals & foreigners alike, and has a big surfing culture as well.

We were dropped off at the beginning of town, and walked the rest of the way in. Dennis knew of a cheap hostel just up the street from Hotel Estrella, so we headed there first. We settled on a room with two bunk beds for $15 a night. It was private with its own shower, so what's not to like?

The hostel was less than a block from the beach, and we could smell the saltwater at night. Unfortunately the walls & doors were not in the best condition, and mosquitoes easily found their way into our room at night. At least we had air-conditioning...

Since none of us had eaten anything after breakfast, we wasted little time getting down to the main drag and finding a restaurant right on the sand. We landed at Iguanas which we would become very familiar with over the next 48 hours. Even though there were dozens of places along the coast, we always seemed to end up back here for breakfast, lunch & dinner.

San Juan del Sur is a half crescent cove on the Pacific coast of south-west Nicaragua. It remained a sleepy little fishing village until 1851 when, of all things, the California gold rush would transform her to become part of a transit route between the east and west coasts of the United States.

Prospectors would leave the east coast, sail to the Caribbean side of Nicaragua, then navigate up the Rio San Juan. From there they would cross Lake Nicaragua, disembark their vessels and catch horse-driven buggies across the 10-mile stretch of land until they reached San Juan del Sur. After all this, they would finally set sail for California.

Look closely at this picture and you'll see a large figure sitting atop the distance hill. Instead of building an ocean-view home for himself, a local land owner recently commissioned this statue of Jesus Christ to preside over the Bay of San Juan. Finished in May of 2009, this statue is the second largest statue of Jesus in the world, second only to the famous Christ The Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

After lunch, Kenny, Dennis, Marta & I all took a stroll amongst the surf to see what we can find. At the far end of the main strip, there is a suspension bridge which spans the Rio San Juan and leads to the other side of town. Oddly enough, only Dennis & myself made it across. Kenny & Marta turned back after just a few feet, fearing the whole bridge would collapse or that they would fall off the side. I can certainly understand this from my scare back in Coco during the last zip lining tour I took.

That evening the sun slowly set behind a beautiful array of clouds, giving me the perfect opportunity to test a new technique I've been waiting to use. I removed my sunglasses, and shot this picture through one of its lens. It may be a bit of a goofy trick, but it was worth a try. I have tried this before with mixed results, but I think this one came out pretty well considering its a single shot, not a bracketed, three exposure HDR image like a lot of my other photos.

In the morning Dennis & I ventured a few miles down the beach to a surfing competition between Nicaragua, Costa Rica, El Salvador, and Guatemala. I must say that I was expecting a bigger turn out, seeing as how I am from Huntington Beach, a.k.a. Surf City. Neither Dennis or myself recognized any of the surfers, which was not all that surprising. We stayed for a few hours, met a few of the locals, then headed back to our hostel to pick up Kenny.

We had another travel day ahead of us, but one that was not nearly as grueling as getting into town from Coco beach. We were headed to Granada, a city that had been on my list since I first starting thinking about moving to Costa Rica back at the beginning of the year...

Headed to Nicaragua

On November 19th, it was time to renew my passport visa for the second time since I arrived in Costa Rica. I wasn't actually required to leave the country until December 4th, but some friends of mine had to renew their visa also, so we all decided to go to Nicaragua together.

I woke at 6am and knew I was in for a long day. I had some last minute packing to do before I met my friends Kenny & Dennis downtown for breakfast at 7:30am. After a quick meal of bacon & eggs at a local soda stand, we caught the 8am bus to Liberia, Costa Rica.

For as early as it was, the buses were surprisingly full. When we arrived at the central bus station in Liberia, it was nearing pandemonium. Most ticos where going to work, some ticas where just headed home, and the gringos just didn't know where they were going.

We found our bus, which was headed for a small border town called Peñas Blancas. This is the main crossing between Costa Rica and Nicaragua. Unfortunately, we were not the only ones who needed to cross the border this morning. From what I was told, commercial truckers must wait in line for up to three days before finally crossing into Nicaragua. Some trucks had hammocks slung underneath their containers, a perfect spot to take a nap.

You can't see it from the picture, but this is only a two lane road, one lane in each direction. When our bus hit the back of the truck line, we simply pulled into oncoming traffic, and continued on. A few times we had to squeeze past a semi-truck which was headed away from the border. As you can imagine, after waiting for three days, these trucks were not in the mood to wait any longer for some tourist bus.

After getting stuck behind a police barricade for a short while in a little town called San Dimas, we finally reached the border and were allowed to disembark. Dennis had just been through this way a few weeks before, and thankfully knew exactly where to go. Whether or not we were allowed to, we went in the exit...

The line to enter the customs building reached far around the corner from the entrance. It was estimated to take a few hours before we could get our exit visa from Costa Rica, and officially enter Nicaragua. However, we snuck around the back, and walked in through the exit doors and straight past a security guard. We were standing in front of a customs agent within five minutes.

Costa Rica has an exit tax of US$26 at the airport, which I had to pay when leaving for Panama a few months before. When walking across the border into Nicaragua however, it was only US$12, a welcomed discount. We all paid our taxes, got our stamps, and headed down a quarter mile strip of dirt to the entrance of Nicaragua.

Some friends of ours work at the border, and met us in no-man's-land to help guide us through the chaos. There is the weird gap between countries where you're not sure which one you're in, or exactly where to go. Had we not had help, this would have been a nightmare.

Our friends took our passports & paperwork, and politely filled everything out for us. As we approached Nicaragua, the turmoil started to increase. Huge trucks were driving every which way, in no apparent order. Helpers and street vendors were approaching us every few feet. To top it all off, there were no signs giving any direction as to where we needed to go. We were lucky to have our friend Marta and her sisters helping us at this point.

We were shown a small window, and instructed to slide our passports through a skinny horizontal opening, where someone on the other side would presumably finish our customs process and let us enter the country. This made me extremely uncomfortable, since I could not see into the building. However, I trusted Marta, complied, and to my relief all went smoothly.

Kenny, Dennis, Marta & myself all walked over to the taxi line, hoping to strike a deal and save some money. We were immediately stopped by a police officer, who was mumbling something in Spanish and pointing to a small hut behind him. Marta said that we now needed to pay a tax to the city mayor of US$1. Something about this didn't seem right, but when a cop tells you to pay a dollar to some guy in a booth, you just pay it.

Without any further interruptions, we found a cab, and started our second half of the day with a final destination of San Juan del Sur on the Pacific coast of Nicaragua. There was only one quick stop we wanted to make first, and that was to Marta's house in Sapoa. She lives there with her grandmother and five sisters, in a modest structure on the shore of Lake Nicaragua.

Lake Nicaragua is a fresh water lake with 3,191 square miles of surface area, making it the 9th largest lake in the Americas. What's really special about this lake, however, is the twin pair of volcanoes stuck right in the middle on an island called Ometepe, meaning two mountains.

The volcanoes are named Concepción and Maderas, with Concepción being the taller of the two at just over a mile high, 5,282 feet to be exact. Only one of the volcanoes, Concepción, is still considered active. After a long silent period, Concepción exploded back to life during a massive eruption in December of 1880. Today, the island has a population of 42,000, who, when the volcano last erupted in 2010, refused to follow a government order to vacate the island. Marta's house backs right up to this view... Not a bad place to live, as long as the volcanoes remain in repose.

We sat around on the shore for a while, admiring the island. At some point, Marta's little cousin jumped in the water and swam around for a while. It was very windy, and quite cold for Central American weather, but that didn't stop him. Nor did the presence of bull sharks, which are reported to live in Lake Nicaragua. Needless to say, none of us were considering a swim.

Marta's House
Below are some pictures from around Marta's house in Sapoa, Nicaragua...

In the foreground you can see their well where GrandMa has pulled water from the ground her entire life. In the background, you can see one of two living quarters. This building, and also the other, each house three bedrooms.

This is their bathroom, or out-house as its more appropriately called. None of us cared to venture in, for good reasons.

Their kitchen is outdoors in this little hut. The weather rarely drops below 70 degrees Fahrenheit in Sapoa. If you can't stand the heat, stay out of this kitchen.

Their shower is manually operated. Basically, you strip and close the door, while the rest of the family stands around pouring buckets of cold well-water over the walls.

And this is GrandMa, all 70 pounds of her. Despite her size, she is tough as nails and just as strong, yet very sweet-hearted and always smiling.

Last of the Last

Jerod & Becky had been visiting for almost a week, and we were down to our last night together. After a long day of zip lining, we decided to take a walk on the beach and watch the sun set.

Unfortunately we did not get a chance to go fishing during their stay, but Jerod still managed to catch a fish. Before we even sat down we found several of these little guys flopping around in the surf, and Jerod quickly chased one down with his bare hands. That still counts, right?

We set our stuff down in front of the Pacifico Resort, an impressive hotel on the north end of the beach. The resort has a couple of infinity pools, which we desperately wanted to jump into, but were off limits to non-patrons of the hotel. No matter, we found plenty of ways to entertain ourselves sitting along the shoreline.

One such activity was to chase crabs all over the beach. Just before sunset I was able to snap this action shot of Jerod & Becky trying to keep a sand crab out of the water. Jerod had just spent 15 minutes digging him out from his sand-cave, and they were not about to let him disappear into the waves without a fight.

It was a little too late in the day for snorkeling, but we still had enough time left for some good old body surfing. All we needed were some waves, which showed up just in time. After Jerod caught a few rides, other people along the beach started to join in.

Eventually though, the sun had retreated behind the hills, and we were ready to say good bye to the beach one last time. The moment was not wasted on any of us as we tried to burn these last rays of sunlight into our memories. It had been a wonderful couple of days together, but as is always the case, seemed to fly by far too fast.

In the morning we took a very early taxi over to the airport. Jerod & Becky had scheduled themselves to arrive home in the mid-afternoon, which meant they needed to catch one of the first flights leaving the Daniel Oduber Quiros International Airport. Their flight would take them back through Houston, a very common route for Continental Airline flights.

I can't thank them enough for coming to visit. Playas del Coco is a small little community, and I was happy we had a few chances to venture out a little bit. Almost as soon as they left, I was counting the days before we would see each other again.

When I returned home, I once again noticed how quiet the house had become without their voices around to break the silence... Jerod & Becky would be my last visitors to Coco before I left and returned home to California...

Witch's Rock

On our last day together, Jerod, Becky, Kenny & myself all went zip lining at a venue called Witch's Rock. Getting there was half the battle though...

We agreed to let the Witch's Rock company send us a shuttle for a small fee. Unfortunately, because of the way Costa Rica's streets work, it was hard for us to give them directions. My neighbor Anthony had setup the appointment for us, and he speaks fluent Spanish. Even with his help they still got lost, and we were left waiting for almost an hour past our designated meeting time.

Once on location, we were setup with our harnesses, and briefly explained the rules. This setup was quite different than the lines my Mom & I did over at Arenal. Here, we were given thick gloves and told to grab the line and pull in order to slow ourselves down. This was also how we would keep ourselves facing the right direction.

At first I was told that I could not bring my big camera along for the ride, only point-and-shoots were allowed. I can only guess, but think this was a ploy to make us purchase their pictures rather than take our own. We just so happen to be friends with one of the owners, and after a quick name drop, they agreed to let me bring it. I'm glad it worked out, because we saw the pictures at the end of our tour and I was none too impressed.

The first couple of lines were tester lines designed to let us get used to the setup. We started by climbing up the hill to the first platform. This was a process that would be repeated several times during our tour. Witch's Rock has 23 platforms, 8,156 feet of zip line, and 4 hanging bridges. Each line is slightly different, and each platform varies widely. The hanging bridges are a whole other animal, which in truth really scared me.

After a couple of lines we all became a bit more relaxed. For me personally, my heart was racing and I was a bit shaky for nearly the entire time. However, there were a few moments that were almost too much for me.

The first overtly intense moment was climbing a latter that went straight up from one platform to another. It took everyone else a matter of seconds, yet I was left standing on the latter for what seemed like five minutes.

Mixed in with the scary situations where some really incredible experiences. The 14th line took us directly over a waterfall. At the top of the falls was a lagoon which in turn was being feed by a slowly snaking river.

The guides gave us one important piece of information for this line: pay attention to where you are. If you let yourself become too distracted by the falls, you could easily overshoot the finish and crash into the stoppers at the end.

By far, the scariest part of the tour for me was the hanging bridges. Again, while the rest of my friends walked effortlessly ahead, I was left suspended with fear for several unnecessary minutes. My feet simply would not cooperate, and my knees trembled in imaginary anticipation of a long and fast fall to earth.

This bridge in-particular felt extraordinarily unsafe to me. The lines holding it together were very loose, and in my opinion wobbled more than they should have. The floor would roll to such a degree that I could have easily slipped off the side and through the draw-lines.

Had I been ten years younger, nothing could have frightened me this way. At this point, my friends were starting to understand just how scared I was, and eased up on the teasing. I know I deserved a good hazing for my silly reaction to a statistically safe situation, but appreciated the unspoken support just the same.

Before we knew it, we had traversed all 23 zip lines expect one, and were now facing our last ride. We asked one of the tour guides to snap a quick shot, for posterity's sake. It was a beautiful, sometimes frightening, but extremely fun way to spend a day.

We were all so tired from the climbing, descending, more climbing, and all the adrenaline pumping through our veins for the past few hours. A quick trip through the gift shop, and we settled in for a relaxing shuttle bus back to our beloved Coco beach.

Jerod & Becky

This month has been very exciting. Between Jerod's visit, a trip up to Nicaragua, Thanksgiving, and now my move coming up in two days, I have had little time to post on this blog. I have some great stories from the last 30 days, and am looking forward to writing about them here....

So, my friends Jerod & Becky came to visit for a week full of relaxation and good times, two things easily accomplished in Playas del Coco.

I asked my buddies Kenny (left) & Anthony (right) to join me at the airport for Jerod's arrival. We made a big sign with their names on it, as you can see. I hid in the crowd, and they tried their best to convince Jerod & Becky that they were here to pick them up while I was waiting for them back in Coco.

Needless to say, that didn't last long, and Jerod immediately started looking around for me. After 30 years of hanging out together, I'd say he knows me pretty well. I was made, and walked over with an ear-to-ear smile on my face. I had been looking forward to their visit for so long now, and it was wonderful to have them finally arrive.

Our friend Joseph had given us a ride to the airport. He works as an independent taxi driver, rather than working for the local cab company. The benefit of this is, first and foremost, price. Additionally, he allowed us to pack all six people into his car and troop on back to Coco, saving us another cab ride. It was a tight fit, but we made it work.

One of Jerod & Becky's first reactions to pulling into Coco was how big this town is. From my earlier descriptions they were expecting a much smaller beach community. This seems to be a recurring theme with my visitors so far, since I have yet to post any pictures of the downtown area. Now that all my visitors have come & gone, I think it is time to post those pictures. Just didn't want to spoil the surprise...

Back at the house, we made some chips & salsa and I gave them the nickle tour. The rooftop patio was a special treat, and we immediately made plans to pick-up some cigars sometime in the next few days. It really is the perfect spot up there, if only it had furniture.

The gang was hungry and a little antsy from the flight, so we ventured into town to check out the action. The Lizard Lounge is extremely hard to miss since it is the first, and loudest, place you come to. However, the later it gets, the crazier it gets, so we returned home for some R&R.

My obvious first choice for breakfast was Cafe de Playa, a staple of any Coco tour. My friend Dennis joined us, and we made a morning out of it. So far this restaurant has failed to disappoint. What's not to like, good food in an open air setting on the beach...

Jerod & Becky happened to arrive during the tail end of Hurricane Tomas which began on October 29th. For the first few days of their visit we received some decent rain, which only slightly limited our activities. We still got in plenty of pool time, beach time, and roof time.

I was glad they experienced both sides of the weather, the rain & the sun. After the rain stopped the sun didn't let up for the rest of their trip, which we were all thankful for. By the time they left a week later, we all had a decent tan going, especially Becky.

We took a hike up the hill, which always proves to be a great workout. The humidity had returned, so I carried up a backpack full of water, which was completely empty upon our return. Without a cloud in the sky, we had an unbeatable view of Coco Bay. I was so happy they got a chance to see my little town from that perspective, and not just from a picture.

At the top of the hill, we started to take a lap around the community to ogle the beautiful homes & views. Fifty feet in we were promptly stopped by a roaming dog. Jerod, as it turns out, is deathly afraid of wild dogs due to an unfriendly encounter during his youth. Coco is not a good place for a person with this particular phobia.

Wild dogs are everywhere here, and at first this was a slight problem for Jerod. Each time a dog would approach, Jerod would pull the closest person he could find in front of him, and close his eyes. I'm happy to report that by the end of the trip, Jerod had made great progress, and I even saw him pet one.

On the walk back down the hill, Jerod & Becky spotted this little lizard basking in the sun, soaking up its long awaited rays. These are fairly common around town, but this guy seemed to be extraordinarily vibrant. He was also brave, and let me get closer with my camera than usual. Eventually he scurried off, and we did the same.

My buddy Dennis had left town to renew his passport, so I asked if we could borrow his scooter for the weekend. This allowed us to get over to Ocotal & Hermosa, but we passed on Playa Panama since it was a bit too far on a scooter. The scooter barely made it over the hill to Playa Hermosa, so passing on Panama was probably a smart choice.

I hopped on the back of Kenny's motorcycle, and Jerod took Becky on the back of the scooter. We visited Father Rooster's in Ocotal, got to see where Kenny lives in Little Dreams, and headed to Hermosa for some lunch. By the time we returned, the scooter was nearly out of gas.

Instead of turning right for Coco, we turned left and headed out to the gas station. Once there, we could not figure out how to get the gas tank open. We must have spent a good thirty minutes on this, but even with help from the gas attendants we failed.

Left with little choice other than to forge ahead and try to make it home, we hit the road and crossed our fingers. By this time it was dark, but at least we were successful in getting home, and arrived on fumes. Dennis was not happy when he returned to an empty tank.

One evening we broke out the poker chips and played a round. Earlier in the week Jerod had picked up some cigars, as was our plan from our first night together. So we spent part that evening on the roof, staring at the stars, happily smoking our cigars. Afterwords, we all sat down for a movie, WallStreet, a classic. What a great combination for an evening at home.

Four of us went zip lining together: Jerod, Becky, Kenny & myself. However, I must save that for another post. I simply have too many great pictures from that adventure...

To be continued...

October

Well Jerod & Becky have come and gone, and we had a fantastic time together... but, those stories are for another post.

This is a short overview of my time between visitors. After Mom & Dad left in mid September, I spent about a week readjusting to the solo lifestyle I live down here. It was difficult at first, mostly because I miss them so much and we had such an amazing time together. Eventually however, I slipped back into the routine of things.

Shortly thereafter I was fortunate enough to meet a new neighbor who moved into the condo next door. Turns out he's a chef, and is in Costa Rica to research restaurant opportunities. He has been very generous with his cooking, and made some mouth-watering dinners for me. Through him I met a whole new group of people, and this was just what I needed to get back into Coco mode.

During October our little gang spent nearly every Saturday & Sunday together watching football & baseball. I have never been much of a sports fan, but do enjoy the big, once a year sporting events like the Super Bowl & World Series. Needless to say that when the World Series was happening, it was all hands on deck for every game.

We have people here from all over the US: California, Texas, Florida & Philadelphia, among others. Texas & San Francisco went toe-to-toe this year, with SF winning the series in game five. For a guy that doesn't watch much sports, it was really a lot of fun, and not just because of the hundreds of chicken wings that my neighbor made.

October was also filled with several poolside BBQs. Like I said, my new neighbor is a chef, and I happened to mention how hard it is to find a decent hamburger in this town. He took care of that with these huge burgers that were over-the-top delicious. On another night he even made some blue cheese burgers, a favorite of mine.

One weekend four of us wanted to do some deep-sea fishing. We hired a local boat captain and set out at 8am for some big game fish. After a couple of hours trolling around the open ocean, we had still not landed any fish. As my buddy Scott would say, its called fishing, not catching. We ended up back on land around midday, empty handed. So, to-date, in Costa Rica, I have only caught a 14 inch skipjack, using a hand line off the shore. At least I've caught something during my time here.

I got to visit a couple different houses over in Ocotal, the next cove over. The first was a beautiful mansion overlooking the canyon & the beach. One side of the house was nearly all glass, a perfect wrap around design. It also had an infinity pool with a beautiful view of the sunset. A few of us threw a house party over there one night, and guess who got stuck with Q-duty, yours truly. I cooked 14 steaks, and BBQ'd over 20 potatoes while the girls put together salad and the cheese breads; everything was gone within 25 minutes.

About a week later I got a chance to visit a second house in Ocotal. This one was higher up on a different hill, but closer to the shoreline. We had a smaller group of people, but had just as much fun. In the evening it started to rain, and my friends & I were ready to head home. The car we borrowed wouldn't start, so we were relegated to the scooters. Driving in the dark, up & down a winding road, in the rain on a borrowed scooter is probably not something I'll do again any time soon.

Although I don't have a lot of specific stories from October, I am left with a feeling of rest & relaxation with good friends, good food, and all sorts of entertainment. Even though October is the first full month that I have not had any visitors from the US, time still seemed to fly by, which is usually a sign of having fun...

Last Day Together

Happy Halloween Everyone!

I'm still working on catching up the blog... Now we're up to September 13th...

I had mixed emotions on my last day with my parents. On one hand, I knew they would be leaving within 24 hours, which made me sad. On the other, we still had another 24 hours remaining to spend together, which made me happy.

We had spent two amazing weeks traveling together; from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean through the Panama Canal; Trekking through the rain forest in Corcovado; Driving across Costa Rica to watch a volcano erupt; And we still had an entire day to spend in Playas del Coco.

My parents had seen most of what there is to see here in Coco, so on our last day together we decided to head to the neighboring beaches and have a look around. But first, I wanted to give them a slightly different view of Coco before we move on... a view I knew they would appreciate.

I took them up the hill, to a place I found when I first discovered HDR photography. There is a gated community behind my condo, and it has a spectacular view of Coco beach.

You might recognize this view from an earlier post, called Sunset with Enya. Its funny to see how my HDR skills have changed since July. Also, I'm using a much more powerful camera now. Still though, its fun to go back and look at the difference between the two.

We took a lap around the community, and admired all the pretty, & huge, and pretty huge houses. Most are for sale, which is just a sign of the times. It seems the depressed housing market knows no limits.

We then headed north, to Playa Hermosa, which is a short five minute drive. We had one specific thing we needed to accomplish, other than that it was play time all day.

Mom, Dad & I used to have breakfast together every Thursday morning. We had been doing this for 6 years before I left. Towards the end, we were meeting at Coco's, and we had become good friends with our favorite waitress, Mary.

They had brought a couple of signs with them which read, "Hello from Costa Rica," and we wanted to get some pictures together to bring back for her. Hermosa was an excellent spot to do this, so we brought along the tripod. This also let us get some pictures for ourselves, something that we had lacked so far in the trip.

On our way to Playa Panama, the next beach on our list, we past a road that I remembered from my last trip to this area. I was curious as to what was down there, since it looked like a newly built road, which usually means there is new construction somewhere.

We were stopped by the gates of some fancy hotel, over looking the bay, and had to turn around. All was not lost, since it afforded us the opportunity to take another group photo. In the background you can see Playa Panama... not such a bad view.

Playa Panama is a little smaller, and much more secluded, than Playa Hermosa. There is really not much to do there except sit on the beach, watch the tide, and relax. Playa Hermosa has a few restaurants along its shores. Panama, not so much. It all depends on what you're looking for. We were just here to put eyes on the beach, and move on.

Next up, Playa Ocotal, by way of a failed excursion to the Riu Hotel. I had heard that the Riu is a city within a city, a vast expanse of luxury that is worth the terrible drive out to it. We headed down the dirt road, bump after bump, for as long as we could manage. Finally we turned around, after we were all looking at each other, as if to say, "what are we doing?"

We made our way back and turned into Playa Ocotal. This beach is mainly focused on the high-end residential communities that fill the nearby valley. From what I hear around the camp fire, everyone who lives in Ocotal comes to Coco for an evening out, be that dinner or just drinks.

We had lunch on the beach in Ocotal at a little place called Father Rooster's. There were a half dozen of these White-throated Magpie-Jay's flying around, which we found to be very cunning creatures. The instant we turned our back on our food, one would swoop in and steal a fry. It happened so fast I barely noticed. They had their timing down to a science, probably from years of practice on unsuspecting tourists.

I had one more place I wanted to show my parents before we returned home for some R&R. There is a small community right on the beach in Ocotal, with a road that winds its way up the hill. We pulled the car in, and came face to face with a howler monkey walking straight down the center of the street, right at us. I imagine the three of us had that deer-in-the-headlights look. I know I sure did.


Fed & happy after a long day of sightseeing, we found our way back to the condo and threw on some NCIS. It was peaceful to lounge around with Mom & Dad, not a care in the world. We had nowhere to be, nothing to do, and felt absolutely great about it.

Mom & Dad had brought me down a card game called Slam! I loved playing this game with them. Its kind of a cross between War, Speed, & Scrabble, and we had some pretty good games going. We were all pretty evenly matched, which made the game that much more fun.

I snuck out at sunset to get some last minute pictures of our beach while I still had my parents here. The sky was extremely yellow that evening, as you can see. Even though I doused myself in bug spray, I still got eaten alive. I guess I have the good blood.

We spent much of that evening copying photos. I wanted to have a copy of all Mom's pictures, and vice-versa. We had purchased a pack of DVDs early, and used those to send all my pictures home with them. Somehow though, I didn't copy all of Mom's pictures, which I only found out while writing these blog posts. What a bummer!

After we had a handle on the photos, Dad & I jumped in the pool for a late night swim. We talked about life, love, experience, and how to take over the world! Ok, maybe not that last one, but the swim was very special for me. We swam until our fingers were so pruney that they could take on no more water. I cannot think of a better way to end our trip.

It was perfect......